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Post by armedandsafe on Jun 8, 2016 22:04:34 GMT -6
Round ball bullet? Pyrodex P powder? FFFg black powder? Triple 7 powder? Black MZ™ powder? With wad? Without wad? Trailing wad? Leading wad? #10 cap? #11 cap? Round numbers to start come in at 18 to 20 grains BY VOLUME!!!!! (You never measure black powder by weight.) Note that the following chart says 15 grains is the minimum. However, you would have to use a filler along with the powder up to 18 grains, which makes it easier to make a mistake. Some charts list 22 grains as the maximum, but they are assuming you are using a high quality reproduction revolver in good shape. It is VERY hard to overload a black powder gun, because the speed of ignition with black powder is pretty slow, compared to the barrel length. However, the substitute powders are faster and can build higher pressures. pw1.netcom.com/~heliboy/guns/bploads.htmlIf you can't get compression on the powder by seating the bullet into the chamber, you are using too little powder + wad. If the bullet sticks out of the chamber mouth, you have too much powder + wad (or, didn't lean on the rod hard enough.) The desirable force to put on the loading rod is called "elbow." There is finger, hand, wrist, elbow, shoulder and body force in that series of force descriptions. Pops
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Post by armedandsafe on Jun 8, 2016 22:40:31 GMT -6
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Post by shooteruk on Jun 9, 2016 1:39:00 GMT -6
Can somebody tell me how much of what powder to use? I have been wondering the same thing and found most on line. Thirty years ago I had a muzzle loading book, that gave all sorts of info on various cals, but its long lost. Now I come to think about it, perhaps as I, like you am getting into it I should buy one.
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Post by armedandsafe on Jun 9, 2016 15:46:08 GMT -6
The old formula was to put the same VOLUME powder as the VOLUME of the bullet. Another one from the same era: Put the ball (bullet) in the palm of your open hand. Slowly pour powder over the bullet until it is just covered. Make a dipper to hold just that amount. That was considered a starting load. It was then adjusted to the liking of the particular gun. The one I recommend: www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/publications/black-powder.phpPops
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Post by eddien on Jun 9, 2016 22:03:13 GMT -6
Thanks for all the info. Can't wait to try it.
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Post by eddien on Jun 11, 2016 14:35:06 GMT -6
I have some triple seven. And .375 ball. Planning a trip to the range for Independence Day weekend. Thinking about buying another handgun for the trip. 10mm EAA. Opinions?
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Post by shooteruk on Jun 11, 2016 21:23:56 GMT -6
I owned a 10mm Colt Delta Elite when they firs t came out. At the time it was the great new cartridge, and it was hot. The idea was I think Jeff Coopers, and he used it in the BREN 10. I had a go once on a BREN 10, and liked it. Good grief I am old.
I have a 10mm cartridge and special forces story, in short a team insisted on trying it in the field, and once they used most of the ammo they had with them in practice they were unable to source any more. On the whole African continent!
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Post by Alpo on Jun 12, 2016 2:15:19 GMT -6
I like that story. Believe it, too (and everbody knows not to believe war stories).
On a similar note, artcle I read long ago about the 38 Super. Guy said that when he was sent to Vietnam he carried his personally-owned 38 Super 1911, and 500 rounds of ammo, and the parts needed to convert it to 45 when he had used them all.
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Post by shooteruk on Jun 12, 2016 6:34:26 GMT -6
Changing the subject back again, I am looking at a British pocket percussion revolver, in 80 bore (1/80 of 1 lb - 0.2oz)). Now 80 bore is .35" at the chamber opening, so I am thinking the load data cant be far from that for a .36". Anyone have an opinion?
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Post by Alpo on Jun 12, 2016 14:26:04 GMT -6
Sounds good, but I'd compare cylinder length, also, to be sure you're comparing apples to apples in regard to load volume space.
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Post by armedandsafe on Jun 12, 2016 21:35:42 GMT -6
Standard .36 caliber is .355 - I'd want to measure the chamber opening carefully before assuming anything in that regard, though. In this particular case, I'd use the cover-the-ball method of getting an idea for loading. Place the ball on your open palm and pour powder over it carefully until it is JUST covered. Pick out the ball and then adjust your powder measure for that amount. That is a beginning load, from which you start playing for best performance. When testing loads, the old trick was to shoot over a white sheet. When you start leaving unburned powder on the sheet, you have reached maximum load. (I've never seen this method accompanied with instructions on how to sneak the dirty sheet back into the laundry load without getting caught. ) Shotgun loading, the formula is the same volume of powder as the volume of shot. However there are variables there which are a bit different from loads found in solid ball chambers / barrels. Pops
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Post by armedandsafe on Jun 12, 2016 21:39:30 GMT -6
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Post by eddien on Aug 4, 2023 11:40:12 GMT -6
Okay, I know it's been awhile since starting this thread. Some questions just came up today. I was looking for some parts for this gun and found some that make me think I might have a replica of something other than the 1851 Navy. Big question: How do identify the different models and manufacturers of this gun? I'm looking for replacement nipples and came across a place that has cylinders, also. Well, the 1851 navy cylinder they show looks different from what I have and the cylinder that matches mine the closest is described as the 1858 new army navy. Also, if there is an easy way to show pics on here, I sure would appreciate if someone would explain it to me. Otherwise, I could show photos of what I have. Some of the markings are hard to make out and I thought it might be a Pietta mfg., but, not sure now. Thanks for your input.
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Post by eddien on Aug 4, 2023 11:43:33 GMT -6
If it helps, it uses #10 percussion caps.
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Post by eddien on Aug 4, 2023 12:32:10 GMT -6
Other than the proof marks, the only other marking is what looks like a target. Hard to tell because the top of it looks worn off, though that could be how it was printed(?) A circle inside another circle with crosshairs(?), horizontal one is broken and inside the inner circle looks like the initials EG formed as part of another circle. Any ideas?
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